In 2015, the owners of Tres Gatos and Casa Verde in Jamaica Plain decided to implement a 3 percent “hospitality administrative fee” — a surcharge meant mainly to boost pay for the dishwashers, line cooks, and other back-of-house workers who often earn significantly less than their tipped counterparts.
“We think that within five years the majority of restaurants will have adopted some measure to address this critical issue,” the owners wrote, explaining the decision.
It turns out, they were right.
These surcharges, once an anomaly, have begun popping up on bills at dozens of eateries across Boston, from a walk-up bagel joint in Roslindale to a sit-down Italian-inspired restaurant in Cambridge to a downtown brewery. And unlike similar COVID-era fees meant to defray the costs of protective equipment or supply chain snarls, these back-of-house surcharges seem to be here to stay.
Related: From 2016: For some restaurants, a 3 percent solution
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“That was always our goal, was not to be alone in the woods doing this,” said David Doyle, co-owner of Tres Gatos and Casa Verde, where the fees are now 5 percent. “All those concerns about the wellness of our crews are really front and center now — and really inextricably tied to the financial...
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