When Kristen Kilty and Kathleen Taricani-Hickey opened The Cormorant in Newburyport in December, they were committed to a radical policy: “No tipping required.” Their intent was to simplify bills for customers, and to make certain that every employee — the wait staff and kitchen staff — was paid above minimum wage.
“We did this so that our employees had an idea of what their paycheck would look like, so they could count on their pay and they could live their lives accordingly,” said Kilty.
Kilty and Taricani-Hickey represent the changing face of the restaurant business. They knew their biggest challenge would be the industry’s ongoing labor shortage.
“How do you hire staff members? How do you keep them?” said Taricani-Hickey. “We thought if we create sustainability for our staff, then we’re creating a more holistic solution. We would retain them, and that would produce better service.”
They had also heard the doubters, who claim they can earn wages far exceeding the minimum wage of $15 with the traditional tipping model. “We’ve had people tell us, ‘I can make way more money being a waitress,’” said Taricani-Hickey. “And you can.
“But there are only so many high-end restaurants in Newburyport, or on the North Shore, or in Massachusetts,” she said. “They’re not going to have a winning day every day, 365 days a year. That’s not reality.”
Others argue that a 20 percent tip ensures good service. Kilty disagreed. That attitude, she said, implies “that the server works for the...
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